Caves Yves Cuilleron Viognier 'Les Vignes d'a Côte', Rhône 2022
Whitfield Wines has had a single Viognier on the list for a couple of months - a lovely expression of the grape from the South West of France, tantalising with its tangerine, peachy, mango notes, and so approachable yet refreshing, with such soft tannins and low acidity. Also made by bordelaise wine royalty, the Cazes family.
Feedback and demand is strong, but I felt as it was not from northern Rhône we couldn't claim it as a baby Condrieu.
The Cuilleron Viognier is most definitely in the Condrieu camp in all but name, and is far from childish! Made by Yves Cuilleron, described as the most important vigneron in Northern Rhone, he took over the reins as the 4th generation vigneron in 1987. He is based in Chavanay, just south of Condrieu and has built up a formidable reputation in recent years.
This wine is classic in it Rhône Viognier style, all peaches dried fruit and white flowers and achieves brilliant balance in response to Viognier's low acidity. The wine spends 9 months in barriques on the lees with regular bâtonnage.
A restaurant wine not only as it appears on many lists around London but also because Yves serves it at his excellent bistro in Ampuis.
