Montenidori Vernaccia di San Gimignano 'Tradizionale' 2021
I am so excited to be adding this wine to the Whitfield Wines list. My favourite type of restaurant wine, as I first discovered very near where it is made - in Florence - at the infamous Cinghiale Bianco, I then traced it back to London where it is served in some of the greats, but not easy to buy privately. Perfect.
In the right hands, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (the name of both grape and wine) has great textural richness. Vernaccia grape has been documented in San Gimignano since 1276, while the Montenidoli estate appeared in a 1404 will. the Montenidoli estate appeared in a 1404 will.
Elisabetta Fagiuoli and her late husband, Sergio Muratori planted the then abandoned Montenidoli with vines from 1965. Red grapes are grown on Triassic clays (very rare in Tuscany), the Vernaccia on younger, well-drained calcareous ground. The Vernaccia is made like a red, a waning local tradition, with short but important skin contact before pressing and fermenting leaving deeply textured yellow fruit with staying power and an unmistakeable tang.
Hand picked, low in sulphur and unfined, this is organic (whatever that really means in wine). These characterful whites aren’t as well known as other Italian DOCG wines, but they reflect their Tuscan homeland and deserve to be recognised as one of Italy’s best and most characterful white wines.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano has relatively low acidity and is low in aromas. It is also high in tannins and is described by locals as more like a red grape. Yet it's savoury, salty elements result in fresh, tangy wines.
If you have never tried these wines, I would urge you to put it top of you white wines list. It is truly wonderful.