Domaine Cheysson Beaujolais Blanc 'L'Exception' 2022
A white wine from Beaujolais - never heard of it, never tried it! That is often the response i hear on these rare chardonnays. They just are not exported as much, and what is sent to these shires is snapped up by the restaurants that specialise in wines from this wonderful part of Burgundy.
Established by Emile Cheysson in 1870, this excellent domaine epitomises the character of this particular ‘cru’ where the high altitude makes for wines of exceptional freshness, delicacy and perfume.
This wine is indeed an exception - the special reserve is ‘the Exception’, because it is the only vine producing white in the appellation Chiroubles, one of the 10 Crus in Beaujolais; from north to south are St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.
The producer makes a small amount of this excellent, steely Beaujolais Blanc from Chardonnay grapes, sometimes more in the style of Chablis than Mâcon, a brilliant companion to oysters or ‘moules marinières’. Grown on granite as opposed to limestone.
At Whitfield Wines, I love to find value in Burgundy and I think this represents just that. It is off-the-beaten-track, insider wine at its best and very tough to get your hands on in the UK. If you like village Chablis, you will love this white Beaujolais.